Seeking the real deal! Alex Zaitchik's last meal before moving to India.

Is there a more colorful, sense-titillating, or tastier field of human study than that of Indian gastronomy? A good case can be made that, No, there isn't. Luckily there's no shortage of good Indian on this island, but a few spots do stand out above the rest.

Among these is Iniavan's on Chander Rd. on one of Little India's humbler back streets. Proprietor Martin G and his manager Manesh Muraleedharan (who hails from the Indian state of Kerala) bring to Singapore the best of India's tastebud tantalizing and head-spinning cuisine.

A meal at Iniavan's begins with a large banana leaf, to be used as both place mat and plate. Upon the leaf, healthy portions of the usual spices sauces, rice and raitas (which an attentive staff continually re-supply as needed) are heaped, as well as your choices from a delicious range of entrees offered daily.

We recommend the mutton masala, chilli chicken, ghobi Manchurian and fish with pepper masala.

Most ring in at around $8; if you're in the mood for a special treat, try the Jumbo Chili prawns. Cutlery is supplied but is optional, and many Indian patrons prefer to eat in the traditional style, sans fork. If you've never eaten rice with your hands, give yourself a good wash and try it. It's liberating.